원정 개요

Cho Oyu Climbing Expedition, led by Mika Mansikka - 9 October 2008

The expedition went to the summit in three parties on three successive days.

In the first summit party on 2 October were Falconer, Koponen, Madge, Mazur, Pando and Spencer, plus Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu. Spencer actually had started his summit push from C1 at 10:00 pm on the 1st. He reached C3 at 4:00 am on the 2nd as the others were leaving for the top, and he was on the summit with them on the 2nd at 3:00 pm, then descended to C2 at 11:00 pm. He did all this without using oxygen at any time.

The rest of this party left C3 at 4:00 am on the 2nd. Falconer, Madge, Mazur and Jangbu summited at 11:00 am while the others got to the top at 3:00 pm. All of them except Koponen and Pando were back in C3 at 4:00 pm.

Koponen and Pando did not return to C3 until 6:00 pm. Five of Koponen's fingers became frostbitten. Pando was very slow even though he was on oxygen, and he lost mobility in C1; in Kathmandu he was hospitalized for several days. It was not clear what his medical problem was: Mazur thought it was cerebral edema but doctors in Kathmandu said it was a chest infection. He was able to fly home alone on the 9th.

The second summit party:

The members of the second summit party were Aho, Fairweather, Kalliola, Mansikka, Sahney, Turner, Valanne and Zuidweg, plus Tibetans Ishi, Pincho and Ungla. They left C3 on 3 October between 3:15 am, when Sahney started up, and 3:45 am, when Turner set off.

Zuidweg developed cerebral edema, turned back at 8000m and reached C2 at 3:00 pm. Kalliola turned back with him; he was tired and cold. He rested in C3, then went down to C2. Valanne got no higher than 7700m at 5:00 am, he also was cold and he wanted to protect fingers which had been frostbitten on Everest. He descended all the way to BC. Aho was tired and turned back with Valanne but continued down to C1.

The successful summiters in this party were Sahney at 9:15 am, and Fairweather, Mansikka, Turner and Tibetan Ishi, at 9:30 am. All went down to ABC except Mansikka, the leader, who stopped in C2.

The third summit party were just three members, Blair, Kausch, Petersen, and one Sherpa, Pasang Gelu. They started up from C3 at 4:30 am and all of them summited: Pasang Gelu at 9:30 am, Kausch at 10:00 am, Petersen at 10:45 am, and Blair at 11:00 am. They all descended to C2.

Other non-summiting members:

Clarke reached C1 several times, the last time on 25 September, but chest infection defeated him and he left ABC on 26 September.

Cloud got to 6700m, had a back problem and no higher.

Kallio got to 6600m, but not fit enough for the climb and left on 26 September.

Kellund got to 7100m, but not strong enough to go higher.

Leendertse went to C1 only, had a bad cough and left on 26 September.

Rota got to C2 but developed a very poor appetite and left ABC on 3 October.

Wasowski reached C2, got cerebral edema and left ABC on 1 September; he was on oxygen from C2 to BC.

Oxygen:
Aho from C3 to his point to C1.
Fairweather, Falconer, Madge, Mazur and Pando from C3 to top to C3.
Sahney and Turner from C3 to top to C2.
Wasowski (see above)

No other members used any oxygen; Sherpas and Tibetans also used none.

Sherpas:
Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, Lhotse X1
Lhakpa Gelu/Gelbu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Everest X3, Lhotse X1
Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel, Solu, Dhaulagiri I X1, Everest X5

Tibetans (no biographical data available)


Fax from Dan Mazur to Elizabeth Hawley - 12 Oct 2008

Tibetan summiters on 3 Oct 2008:
Tsering Pinso
Champa/Qiangba from Gyantse
Gonga/Onga from Old Tingri
Norbu Tenzi from Shigatse
Kezhu/Ketsu from Lingdrushen (near Lhasa)
Ishi/Tenzi from New Tingri, about 17 yrs