원정 개요

BC at 100m above Hongu River, east of Kangone Dingma
ABC on moraine
Biv in crevasse.

After BC esablished, looked for route to ridge because no obvious approach to it. Nga Temba brought his own gear and was not paid wages; ate Brits food but did not carry loads for them. Above C1 250m steep (80 degrees at top) snow slope and fixed rope here - 2 rock towers on ridge; 1st fixed ropes on eastern side and traversed around it (300m traverse), dropped down to snow below it and crossed 2 difficult rock steps (fixed 400m rope have around onto ridge). Main section of ridge was relatively easy snow but very complicated system of knife ridges. C2 on crest of ridge; above C2 had to go onto W Face of ridge because poor snow on crest of ridge and narrow ridge. 3-4 hours along ridge was rock step but did not fix it or any other section above C2. Rock band very technical climbing up 50 vertical meters (was 200m below biv at 6840m so was at about 6600m at its bottom). Above band 70 degrees ice and then steep snow. Summiters down to C2 on 20th, which date other members went to summit of Mera Peak (and returned to Chamlang BC same day). Summiters to BC 22 Oct.