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Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2008

Ama Dablam · 2008 · 가을 (3) · UK

원정 개요

Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2008, led by Caroline Ogden - 7 Dec 2008

The expedition's C3 at 6250m was in a very safe spot on the Mushroom Ridge. They were very comfortable with it. They were on the mountain late in the season when it cold, and no bits of ice fell of the Dablam while they were on the mountain. They were happy to be the only team there and therefore no crowding.

They went to the summit in two parties. They first one was composed of five members and three Sherpas: Chin, Moriarty, Stirling, Andy Taylor, Wilson, and Sherpas Ang Kazi, Mingma Tsiri and Pasang Tenzing. They left C3 at 7:30 am on 29 November. Chin turned back at 9:30 am when he was at the Dablam at 6500m; he realized that he did not have enough energy to get to the top and return; Mingma Tsiri turned back with him to C3. The others were on the summit at 11:45 am and returned to C3 between 3:00 and 5:00 pm. Chin descended only to C1 on the 30th because he was tired while the others were back in BC that day.

The second summit party left C3 at 7:30 am on 2 December. They were Goodland, MacHugh, Mesnage, Ogden, and Sherpas Pasnag Dawa/Pa Dawa, Phurba Gyalzen and Thomting, and they all went to the summit. Ogden was the first to reach the summit at 1:00 pm and Goodland was the last one hour later. All returned to C3 between 2:00 and 4:00 pm that day and BC the next day.

Other non-summiting members:

Beare went to C1 on 22 November on an acclimatization climb, but got bronchitis and left the team on 28 October.

Bentley was in C3 on the 28th with the first summit party, but was too tired to climb above the camp.

McDonald reached C1 on the 28th, then had an altitude problem and went no higher.

Stebnyckyj never went above BC because he had a bad head cold and left on the 28th too.

Robin Taylor got only to C1 on an acclimatization climb, but was not strong enough to do more climbing and he left on the 27th or 28th.

Sherpas:
Ang Kazi, 21/8/84 (5/5/2041), Kharikhola, Everest X2
Mingma Tsiri, 1/8/70 (17/4/2027), Beding, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X2,
Dhaulagiri I X1, K2 X1
Pasang Dawa/Pa Dawa, 18/1/77 (5/10/2033), Pangboche, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X4,
Lhotse X1
Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84 (15/6/2041), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
Phurba Gyalzen, 24/1/84 (10/10/2040), Pangkoma, Solu, Everest X1, Kangch X1,
Cho Oyu X1
Thomting/Tamting, 19/12/74? 4/9/74 (19/5/2031)?, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X6

  • 내부 원정 ID6202
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD08330
  • 대장Caroline Ogden
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 20명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Caroline OgdenUKLeader성공--
Marty BeareNew ZealandDeputy Leader---
John BentleyAustraliaClimber---
Jerome Hsi-Cheng ChinUSAClimber---
William Royse (Bill) GoodlandUKClimber성공--
Barry MacHughIrelandClimber성공--
Christopher McDonaldAustraliaClimber---
Corrine MesnageAustraliaClimber성공--
Richard John MoriartyUKClimber성공--
Mark StebnyckyjAustraliaClimber---
Archie StirlingUKClimber성공--
Andrew (Andy) TaylorUKClimber성공--
Robin TaylorUKClimber---
Emma Kate WilsonUKClimber성공--
Ang Kazi (Ang Kaji) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Pasang Tenzing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Phura Gyalzen (Phurba Gyalzen) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Tamting SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/reports_read.html?id=708 · 2008 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/despatches_list.html?id=29 · 2008 · 웹사이트 (5) ·