원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C2 as 3 tents in crevasse protected from avalanche
C3 at ridge.

C1 at 5850m destroyed by avalanche after member and Sherpa descended on 8th in bad weather. 11 Sept Sherpas returned to C1 site, all disappeared at C1, which had all expedition equipment, but dug out on 13th and tents destroyed but much could be retrieved. Many avalanches down the face. 23rd Sherpas went to C4 with members and then down. 23rd 3 members went for summit: Casimiro turned back at 8200m feeling very cold; other 2 on up to 8400m when wind came from all directions and already climbing 12 hours and small slab avalanches falling so down. Hoped for another summit bid but still very cold and strong winds and avalanches night of 23 Sept that broke tents at C2 and took away equipment occupied by Sherpas and Casimiro while at C4 snow broke tent. Now felt mountain wanted climbers to leave. Fixed total 1300m placed between C1 and halfway to C4.