원정 개요

BC at normal site
C3 at beginning of steep section just above Shelf
High point slightly above col between Yalung and Main peak.

Very good weather, but 1st 15 days of Sept much snowfall & we put many fixed ropes: from BC to C1 is very steep & we must put many fixed ropes. When we reached C3, rested alone because Sherpas in good condition & they went down. These days no wind & very clear but in afternoon very cold. 1 Oct Martini made C4 alone; 3-4 hrs to make platform in snow for his tent. 2 Oct climbed 100m above C4: steep & knee-deep snow & down to C2 that same day, very tired. 3 Oct in BC. Started up again 8 Oct with 1 Sherpa & reached C2. 9 Oct to C3, 10 Oct to C4. 11th am took 2 hrs before could make hot drink, sirdar went ahead of Martini & went up wrong couloir; thus must go back to C4 & climb finished. Martini found on 12th he too tired to go up alone.