원정 개요

BC at south end of South Annapurna Glacier
ABC on western slope of Tent Peak-Glacier Dome ridge
C1 on western slope
C2 on western slope
Biv 1 on East Ridge
Biv 2 on East Ridge.

Difficult to final route to East Ridge because slopes broken up and steep; slopes were under ridge connecting Tent Peak, Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome. Reached Annapurna East Ridge east of Glacier Dome, west of Roc Noir on 18 May. Bowie to BC 15th with flu; he was very useful then keeping things intact when 1 Tibetan Sherpa came down to get food for Lhotse. 1st biv on 19 May on ridge at 7460m by Hamor, Morawski and Pustelnik accompanied by Lhotse; 2nd biv on 20 May at 7300m on ridge. 21 May went for summit, but Lhotse climbing with them, got stuck at col between East and Central Summit. Ridge very difficult and found route at 4:00 pm, having left biv at 7:00 am, route by ramp down 100m on North Face of slope of Central Summit to 7900m and looked for biv site but wasn't any. Now it became clear that Lhotse had become partially snowblind, dehydrated, didn't have headlamp and so Pustelnik and Morawski returned to BC with him, having difficult time helping him and reached 2nd biv site at 5:00 am of 22nd. Meanwhile Homar went on to rejoin East Ridge and got to Central summit at 6:30 pm and Main Summit at 8:45 pm and down to make a biv at or between Central and Main Summit at 10:00 pm. 22nd to 7300m biv where found other members and Lhotse. 23rd Hamor down to C2 alone because Lhotse unable to go till 24th; all very weak without food 4-5 days but had to descend and reached C2 with great difficulty and exhausted.