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BC at high BC.

No fixed camps but made depot on 3rd Sept at 6300m and avalanching took it all away. Borrowed gear from from Spaniards after found gear gone. On 25th left BC at 1 am and up to 6600m spent afternoon there; 6 pm up on to 7800m just below rock wall where reached 3 am 26 Sept. Troillet discovered this biv tent broken in 2 pieces so abandoned wall and down to BC same day without great difficulty. Snow face is 50 degrees but wall above 7800m fine rock mixed with ice at 90 degrees. Changed route and reached W Pillar at 6500m; started up 1 Oct at 1 am from BC and joining 2 Spaniards at 7900m at 9 pm at small biv. 2 Swiss and 4 Spaniards left together at 11 pm 1 Oct and on top: Loretan at 10 am, Troillet 10:30 am.

Loretan and Troillet left top 11:00 or 11:30 am and reached BC: Loretan 7:00 pm and Troillet 8:00 pm. 2 Spaniards left later and arrived for biv only.