원정 개요

Jagged Globe Manaslu Expedition - 9 October 2008

There was a long heavy snowstorm on Manaslu in the latter part of September, and this expedition lost C2 (at 6700m). In it were 12 tents, 16 oxygen bottles, 10 cooking sets, food and some personal gear. The storm subsided on the 27th, and two days later their Sherpas found C2 crushed and buried. On 1 October the team was able to establish a new C2 20m higher since they had extra equipment and food supplies.

Many members left the expedition early, thus making it easy to let Henry Todd's team use theirs at C2.

The early leavers were:

Breslin left 26 Sept. He had reached C2 on the 17th but had not slept there. He had other commitments and a fixed departure date of 5 October. He knew he now had no chance of reaching the top.

Brown, Cartwright, Chambers, Groves, Jakofcic and Wade also left on the 26th because they believed they now had no chance of summiting.

McIntyre was evacuated from BC on 22 September because he had a serious case of pneumonia. He had reached C1.

The only other case of illness was Dickens' altitude sickness when she went up to C2 on 1 October. She descended to ABC on the 3rd and recovered.

The summit party therefore consisted of Anson, Larson, Phethran, Pennington, Potter, Ruthland, Timus, plus Mingma Tshering, Thundu, Nima Gyalzen, Pema Chhiring, and Tshering Pemba. They left C3 at 3:15 am on 4 October, summited at 9:08 am and descended to C2 between 4:00 and 4:30 pm to sleep that night.

Fixed rope: 2000m (800m from other teams)

Oxygen:
Anson in and from C3 to top to C3
Larson in and from C3 to top to C3
Pennington from C3 to top
Phethran in and from C3 to top to C2
Potter in and from C3 to top to C3
Rutland in and from C3 to top to C3
Timms in and from C3 to to top to C3
Sherpas none

Sherpas:
Mingma Tshering, 2/8/70, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X13, K2 X1, Cho Oyu X2,
Dhaula X1
Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
Pema Chhiring, 17/12/83, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X6, Lhotse X1
Thundu, 18/2/78, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4
Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Everest 23/5/07


Von: Altitude Junkies [mailto:info@altitudejunkies.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 21. Juni 2010 12:49
An: Eberhard Jurgalski
Betreff: Re: Manaslu Summits

Hi Eberhard,

In 2008 both Himalayan Experience and Jagged Globe claimed a summit but they stopped at the foresummit which has a small steep triangular rock on the right hand side.

Valeri, Tarke and myself continued on a somewhat narrow ridge to the col where we rested. After the Japenese climbers started the final ridge roped up we all followed. The ridge is narrow and exposed and raises and drops for about 40-50 meters until reaching a large rock on the left hand side of the ridge. After this rock it is about 5-8 meters linear and about 2 meters
vertical to the true summit which was corniced on top of the final rocks that you sometimes see in photos. This is the true final summit as there is nowhere to go higher.

In 2009 Sammy, Pasang Gumbu and Margaret all reached the rock on the left hand side just before the final 5-8 linear and 2 vertical meters. This is where some of the other groups reached a few days later. Some of the climbers who have summitted all the 14 8000 meter peaks have also reached this point only.

I think this should be considered the summit for Sammy and company in 2009.

Best regards
Phil Crampton


Ed. note: A published summit photo on the internet shows seven persons on a broad flat summit top; this cannot be the true summit since that is very narrow and can only accommodate one or two climbers at most.