원정 개요

BC on ridge just above glacier's junction
C1 at beginning of snow
C2 at West Pillar
C3 at West Pillar
Biv1 at West Pillar's top nearly
Biv2 at West Pillar's top nearly.

After C3 establish all 3-4 days in BC. On 28 Sept 3 members started up and slept in C2. 29 Sept to C3. 3 members to 1st biv on 30th Sept made in night. 2nd biv only Badiola and Valles who picked better site for biv in daylight while Jover down to BC very tired. 2 Oct 2 members to summit leaving 2nd biv at midnight and on top at 11:30 am (Badiola) and 12 noon (Valles). In descent at 8300m at 12:30 pm stones falling. Bodiola fell down East Face. Valles reached Badiola and found him dead, thus climb finished.

Martinez in BC after difficulty of climb, Jover tired and Blazquez has tooth infection.


Report from Carles Valles to Tourism Ministry dated BC - 4 Oct 91:

The day 2 of October we climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar. We left last camp at 8000m 1:00 am 2 Oct. We climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar in 10 hours. We stay in summit 30 minutes and after go down. The accident people is Manu Badiola. In 8300m in West Ridge he is go [fell] down the NE-East Face 800m down. I go to rescue and he is dead.