원정 개요

BC at high BC (same as Swiss and Spaniards (Valles))
C3 at Makalu La.

1st summit attack 5th Oct by members and sirdar from C4 and reached top. Left C4 4:00 am and on summit 10:55 to 12:08. All down to C4 and 6th Oct. All 4 to BC. 2nd summit attack by other 3 Japanese and 1 Sherpa, Furu Gyalgen; Nozawai turned back at 8100m (tired) and Furu Gyalgen with him to help him down and reached C4 while Nagao and Ishizaka continued to top. Had left C4 3:30 am and on top over 12 hrs later because Nagao's crampon broken and waited for Nozawari to reach then at 8100m (which he did 11:00 am) and strong cold wind. In descent Nozawari and Ishizaka biv at 8200m after dark (6:30 to 7:00 pm perhaps): no biv gear with them but they dug snow cave. Next day they got to 8000m and here also biv because Ishizaka "very tired and not walking" (i.e., on easy route was slipping and sliding). 8th evening tried to get to C4 and Ishizaka in dark and now headlamps lost or dead batteries. Miss Nagao made cave here and called to Ishizaka to return to 8000m, he said OK but did not came up to her and at midnight when she called no one there. 9th 9:00 am she went down fixed rope and at 7900m found Ishizaka attached to rope dead. She reached C4 on 9th where there was no one. Imamura and Futamata reached C4 that afternoon from C1, contact on radio and meet at 7600m at 5:00 pm and all 3 down to C3 at 7:00 pm in dark. 10th Oct down to BC. Ishizaka body left stuck at 7900m.

Miss Nagao very bad frostbitten fingers on both hands and toes on both feet; all fingers will have to be amputated at least at first joint and perhaps toes also; nose also frostbitten but will heal. Ang Dorje frostbitten at 1st biv; frostbite on 3 toes of right foot; frozen on attack day; did not use overboats: was given money to buy equipment and at C1 found his boots and overboots did not fit.

14th Oct helicopter brought Imanura, Nagao and Ang Dorje to KTM; 19th Oct other members will arrive Tumlingtar.