한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Autumn 2008 Lhotse Shar Expedition

Lhotse Shar · 2008 · 가을 (3) · Italy

원정 개요

On 20 Sept Fregona fixed rope between C1 and C2 at 5600m he reached serac and slipped whilst doing so for 20m and hurt his shoulder. He went to Khunde Hospital on 21 Sept and stayed for two nights. On 23 Sept he went to BC. On 28 Sept he reached C2 in Ok conditions. When he reached the point at serac he did not have any trouble. On 29 Sept he descended to BC and on 30 Sept he went from BC to C2 in 5 hours. On 1 Oct he left C2 at midday to fix rope at 2nd serac at 6500m. He reached serac at 2 pm and when he stopped to look at serac, he triggered an avalanche. He managed to stop himself with ice axe. At this point he decided to give up. He descended to C2 where he stayed the night. On 2 Oct BC. On 4 Oct he went to C1 to collect everything. He left BC on 5 Oct.

He thinks that the conditions were bad this year and it was too tough alone. The conditions were different from the pictures he had seen. Less ice, more crevasses.

Fixed rope: 250m between C1 & C2

  • 내부 원정 ID6132
  • 원본 EXPIDLSHR08301
  • 대장Diego Fregona
  • 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6500m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 1명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Diego FregonaItalyLeader---

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