원정 개요

BC at Chinese BC
C1 at NNW of Hornbein on icefield
C2 at snow cave just below "White Limbo".

Did some training climbing before ABC established. Split team into 3 groups and 1st tried to open route slightly E of Australian route towards couloir: many avalanches coming down Australian's White Limbo as snow fell every night and avalanched every day as sun warmed it. Then 3 days snowfall buried ropes fixed at bottom of face and 28th Aug called all back to ABC as entire face was avalanching. Regrouped team as half of 2 months time gone. Fresh group of 6 and climbing leader up to C1 on 1 Sept and tried to retrace way to bottom of face and ropes but could retrive little. 3 or 4 Sept started on route to make to C2 and on 1st day fixed from 6400m to 6550m to just below rock buttress. Meanwhile dumped loads at base of Changtse including most of technical gear. Then continuous snowfall 3-4 days and Hornbein and W Ridge avalanching badly with huge ice shelf collapsing 8 Sept from below couloir and snow covered entire face (Indians were at C1 and not hit). 11th Sept back to ABC, 14th Sept back to C1, moved cache gear down a bit and opened route up face to 7200m and made snow cave for rations, oxygen, tents etc. - these for summit attack. Took 13 hrs to carry from C1 and no place to rest seated. Finally Sept 4 members move into cave and established C2. 21st support group moved more supplies up to C2 while 4 started on route above C2 and fixed ropes 150-200m vertical; this area a mix of ice and snow. Had planned 5 camps but now running time decided only 4 total. 22nd Sept fixed 75m rope but now steeper and snow powdery and extremely slippery and impossible to fix anchors and face to west of them avalanched, so back to snow cave. Strong wind had started 21st night and on 23rd impossible to leave cave because of its strength; up to see snow conditions but at least 100 km/hr wind made progress difficult and slow; went to high point reached on 22nd, retrieved tent and now retreat began: progress so slow impossible to succeed in time allotted.

Used 3 Tibetans to C2.