원정 개요

BC next to eastern small lake
C1 just east of West Col
C2 between points 6529 and 6605 below SE Ridge on east side.

Alpine Ascents Baruntse Expedition, led by David Morton - 4 Oct 2008

After C2 had been established on 19 Sept and occupied in their acclimatization climb, the entire expedition went down to BC to rest on the 20th. On the 22nd they started up for their push to the summit; they slept in C1 that night and C2 on the 23rd. Now heavy snowfall prevented them from continuing up on the 24th but kept them in C2 till the morning of the 27th, when they made their bid for the top. (They didn't have a problem with avalanching, but another team led by Michael Roberts did.)

On the 27th all five members and four Sherpas left C2 at 3:30 am for the top. Wright became exhausted and had to turn back at 6900m, and Tshering Dorje turned back with him. The other members, Boyer, Edwards, Geist and Morton, plus Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Kami Rita, and Phura Kancha went on to the summit at 11:00 am.

The members and Sherpas had no health problems, but their kitchen boy Milan Rai from Sankhuwasabha district developed acute pulmonary edema at BC on 16 Sept, was taken down valley that day and evacuated by helicopter on the 17th for four days' recovery in a hospital.

Sherpas:
Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X6
Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X3
Phur Kancha, 17/1/77, Thami, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4