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Kazakhstan Makalu

Makalu · 2008 · 봄 (1) · Kazakhstan

원정 개요

C3 at Makalu La
C4 at above Icefall.

Kazakhstan Makalu, led by Denis Urubko - 20 May 2008

The team arrive at the Hillary BC (4800m) by helicopter on 19 April. The helicopter was supposed to return to Lukla to pick up their baggage and other Makalu climbers for a second trip, but when it landed at Hillary BC, some parts were broken and it could not take off. So the four Kazakhstanis trekked to their BC at 5650m in lightweight clothing with little food, two low altitude tents and three sleeping bags. They had to borrow clothes and gear from other teams and eat as guests of the others.

They arrived at their BC on 21 April and made C1 at 6150m the next day. On the 23rd they returned to BC. On the 25th their sirdar arrived with other teams, but the Kazakhstani's baggage had been left off at 4800m; porters brought it to 5300m on the 25th.

Without waiting for their baggage to turn up at BC, Urubko and his teammates left BC for C1 on 26 April, on 27th made C2 at 6700m and on 28th went down directly to BC, where they found all of their baggage.

On the 1st of May they went up from BC to C2 and on the 2nd they established C3 at 7400m on the Makalu La. On the 4th they descended once again to BC and on the 6th went down to Hillary BC to rest and breathe the air of a lower altitude. But on the 7th they were back in BC for their summit push.

On 9 May they climbed from BC to C2, on the 10th to C3 and on the 11th to 7900m to make C4 there. The four left C4 for the summit at 4:00 am of the 12th and reached the summit together at 12:00 noon. They returned to C4 at 4:00 pm, and here Dedeshko, Sharipova and Shutov stayed for the night. But since they had only one small tent at C4, Urubko felt it was better for them if he went on down to C3, which he reached at 6:00 pm. All of them descended to BC on the 13th, and they left BC the next day to go quickly to Kathmandu for their flight out of Nepal on the 21st. They flew from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu on the 20th.

  • 내부 원정 ID6063
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA08110
  • 대장Denis Urubko
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8485m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Denis Viktorovich UrubkoKazakhstanLeader성공--
Boris DedeshkoKazakhstanClimber성공--
Svetlana SharipovaKazakhstanClimber성공--
Evgeny ShutovKazakhstanClimber성공--

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