원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

After C3 established, strong winds prevented more progress till end of Sept. 3 Oct 5 members made summit bid and reached S summit. No route opened beyond there, powdered snow there and hadn't enough oxygen and rope to climb Hillary Step so returned to C4 with Gomez staying at col and others on down.

4th Oct 5 more people up to col. 5th wind so wait at col. 6th go for summit: 6 Spanish climbers up from C4, 5 reach nearly top of Hillary Step. Here on descent Vidaurre cannot see (because wind's effect on eyes) and Gomez, helps him descend. Top is big cornice. Gomez did not ask Vidaurre to wait while Gomez went to top; his friend was weeping in distress and begging for help. In summit bid of 6th, Ortas carried oxygen to 8500m and left there 2 bottles: he did not expect to go to top and carried for his teammates, who used these bottles in ascent. On 6th it was not windy till above S Summit. 7th Oct very strong wind and summit impossible then and climb finished and did not try for Lhotse summit. Vidaurre left small cross at summit which Russian summiter found and brought back.