원정 개요

C2 at Western Cwm
C4 at South Col.

Information from Confortola, 25 August:

Highest point reached were on 25 May: Enzio 8600m with two Sherpas; Confortola 8400m without Sherpas; Mondonelli 8300m without Sherpas. The three members used no oxygen.


Information from Dalla Rosa, 26 October:

The expedition was organized by Dr. Augostino da Polenza in connection with the Ev-K2-CNR project (which he manages) and its purpose was not to send anyone to the summit, but to put a weather station high on the mountain as part of a chain of weather stations across the Himalaya from the Karakorum to Bhutan.

The team arrived at BC on 20 April, never occcupied C1 but went directly to C2 which they first occupied on 28 April. They also skipped C3 and slept in C4 on the South Col on 24 May. Their highest point according to Mondinelli was 8600m on 25 May by Enzio and two Sherpas.


Information from Mondinelli via Dalla Rosa, 30 November and 3-5 December:

There were three climbing members: Confortola, Enzio and Mondinelli. The fourth member Zulian arrived at BC at the end of April with a trekking group, never went above BC, and left about a week later.

The three climbers and five Sherpas arrived at the South Col on 15 May and installed the ground automatic station there. They returned to BC the same day.

The three climbers returned to the South Col on the 24th, slept there that night, and climbed above the Col on the 25th: Enzio with two Sherpas, Nawang Dawa and Ang Dorchi, reached 8600m; Confortola got to 8400m without a Sherpa; and Mondinelli went to 8300m without a Sherpa. None of the members used oxygen, while the two Sherpas used it from the Col to 8600m.

The party turned back before the summit because conditions were not favorable for climbers without oxygen: there were strong winds and it was very cold. Mondinelli, the strongest of the three, had no great incentive to go to a summit that he had been to before. They descended all the way to BC the same day.

No one on this expedition had any accidents, illness, or frostbite.

No fixed rope.

Sherpas:
Ang Dorchi, 7/11/78, Nava village, Makalu
Nawang Dawa, 15/1/79, Patle, Okhaldhunga