원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Squires reached 7700m and then abandoned climb on 2 Oct; found climb too hard. 4th Collins, Lock and Groom reached col on 4th Oct intending to go to top that night. Weather had been stable till winds picked up that afternoon (Russians had gone to top in conditions Groom wouldn't accept). Spaniards stayed at col. On 6th reached 8200m following Spanish climbers, then turned back affected by altitude and buffeted by wind. Groom had been in avalanche and broke/bruised ribs and twisted knee and perhaps rebroke his nose 20th Sept on Lhotse Face at 7600m and fell with it to 6600m. Now realized foolish for him to make another attempt. Lock and Collins down to C2 to rest, tried to go up again but gave up at C3, realizing how tired and unmotivated they were. Left BC 11th Oct.

Pratt joined Australian group as requirement of a agent who held permit, originally for Spaniards, but he was entirely independent of Groom's foursome on the mountain. Pratt reached S Col 7 or 8th Oct and stayed on hoping for another summit bid.