원정 개요

International Everest & Lhotse Expedition, led by Arnold Coster - 9 June 2008

The expedition sent 14 members and 13 Sherpas to the summit of Everest on five days, as follows:

The first summit party left C4 between 8:00 and 10:00 pm on 20 May and were on the top on 21 May at the following times: Shelton-Smith and Fur Tenji at 7:30 am; Dowd and Tenzing at 7:45 am; Stalter and Dawa at 7:50 am; Denis and Ang Babu at 9:00 am; and Lipscombe, who had been the last to leave C4 (at 10:00 pm the night before), and Nima Chhiri at 11:30 am. All returned to C4 to stay that night.

The second summit party left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 22nd and reached the summit on 23 May. They were Kiela-Palys and Tshering Dorje at 5:30 am; the Otto half-brothers Christian and Eric with Lhakpa Nuru at 7:00 am; and Brash and Phurba Wangchu at 7:10 am. They all descended to C4 to spend the night.

The third summit party, who left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 25th, consisted of three members and two Sherpas who summited and two members with one Sherpa who turned around before the top. Those who did not go to the top were Laura Mallory and Tan with Pasang Norbu. Laura Mallory gained only about 50 meters altitude in one hour out of camp; she had a stomach problem and returned to C4. Tan was extremely slow; she had reached only 8250m by 1:00 pm on the 26th, so she went back to camp and Pasang Norbu went with her. The successful climbers on 26 May were Adam, Alan and Daniel Mallory with Jangbu and Sange; they were on the summit at 8:00 am.

The fourth summit party consisted of Laura Mallory, who had now recovered her health, and Pasang Norbu. They left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 26th and summited on 27 May at 9:00 am.

Finally. the last summit party had only one member, Browder, with two Sherpas, Pasang Gelu and Lhakpa Gelu. Lhakpa Gelu had summited Lhotse on 19 May, gone down to C2, which was the same for Lhotse and Everest climbers, and returned to C4 for Everest. This party left C4 at 8:00 pm on the 27th and summited on 28 May at 10:00 am. But Browder developed an eye problem, and they did not reach C4 until 7:00 pm; he had become blind in one eye and the sight in his other eye was blurred. His sight got better later that evening and was completely normal the next day.

All members except Shelton-Smith, Stalter and Tan used oxygen from 6800m to their high points to C2. The other three started using it at 7300m to their high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it from C3 to high points to C4.

Members left BC as from 24 May to 2 June as they finished their climb. Browder left on the 2nd of June, the day after their leader had left.

Meanwhile, two clients and leader Coster had made a bid for Lhotse's summit. Coster, Kiriakakis and Coster's wife Maya Sherpa, plus two Sherpas, Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu, left their Lhotse C4 at 0:30 am on 19 May (just past midnight of the 18/19th). Coster and his wife turned back at 8400m at 7:00 am because they thought it was too windy to go much higher, and they descended to C2 that day. Kiriakakis and Lhakpa Gelu, however, went on up and summited at 9:00 am. Lhakpa Gelu got mild frostbite on one of his little fingers and a big toe. The two summiters went down to C4 for the night.

The members used oxygen from 7300m to their high points to C2 while their Sherpas used it from 7300m to high point to C4.

Sherpas:
Ang Babu, 20/12/74, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1
Dawa Sherpa, 1970, Loding, Solu, Everest X5
Fur Tenji, 1/5/68, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, Everest X2
Jangbu Sherpa, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Everest 14/6/07
Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Everest X2
Lhakpa Nuru, 21/8/81 (5/5/2038), Chaurikharka, no 8000ers
Nima Chhiri, 30/4/77 (18/1/2034), Gudel, Everest X3
Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel, Solu, Everest X4, Dhaulagiri X1
Pasang Norbu, 21/12/72 (7/9/2029), Makalu-9, Everest X2, Kangch X1
Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75 (19/8/2032), Waku, Solu, no 8000ers
Sange, 20/9/73, Sotang, Solu, Everest 17/5/07
Tenzing, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3
Tshering Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X4, Manaslu X1