원정 개요

IMG Everest Expedition 2008, led by Mark Tucker - 1 June 2008

Everest teams arriving at BC in April and first days to May found that the Khumbu Icefall route was yet not open. The Sherpas assigned to fix and maintain the Icefall, known as the Icefall doctors, had been asked on about 13 April not to complete the job they had started (they had fixed it almost to the top of the Icefall) until security forces arrived to supervise the new regulations resulting from the Chinese government's obsession with possible demonstrations of opposition to the successful project to get the Olympic torch to the summit of Everest from the Tibetan side. The army major in charge, Sunil Singh Rathor, himself an Everest summiter with the Nepalese-Indian joint army expedition on 22 May 2003, came to BC on 15 April and authorized the resumption of Icefall work. The route was completed the next day, the 16th, and anyone could go up the mountain at will until 30 April, when everyone must be down in BC except cooks, who were allowed to sleep in C1 and C2 to guard their teams belongings. No one was allowed above the Icefall on 1 and 2 May; from 3 May teams could go up to C1 and C2 but not above there. Finally, when the torch had reached the summit in the early morning of 8 May, all restrictions were removed and Maj. Rathor departed.

The expedition sent five parties to the summit. First were Grom, Peress, and Pospischil with Da Nuru, Dawa Nuru and Nima Karma, who left C4 for the top at 9:17 pm on 20 May. Pospischil and Nima Karma turned around at 8450m because the American had become very tired and was too slow they went down to C2. The others reached the summit on 21 May at 6:23 am and descended to C2 at 5:20 pm.

The next group left C4 on the 21st at 8:43 pm and all were on the summit on 22 May between 4:36 am and 8:18 am. The summiters were Cook, Janikowski, Popoviciu, Wedberg, Yannuzzi, Pemba Dorje, Jamling Bhote, Ang Namgyal, Mingma Tshering and Kancha Nuru. Cook, Popoviciu, Jamling Bhote and Pemba Dorje were first up at 4:36 am while Janikowski and Ang Namgyal brought up the rear at 8:18 am. Cook, Popoviciu, Yannuzzi and their Sherpas descended to C2, the others stopped in C4.

The third summit party left C4 on the 22nd at 9:20 pm all on the summit on 23 May at 6:56 am. They were Hawrylewicz, Merle, Smith, Mingma Tenzing, Chewang Lendu and Pasang Nuru. They were back in C4 at 11:15 am.

The fourth group left C4 at 8:15 pm on the 23rd and summited on 24 May between 4:23 and 5:18 am. They were Hamill, Hovland, Warren, Dawa Sona, Phinzo, Pasang and Phu Nuru. All returned to C4 between 8:30 and 10:30 pm.

The last party made two attempts for the summit. Hahn, Messner, Finjo Dorje and Samduk Dorje Tamang left C4 on the 25th at 11:00 pm but turned around at about 8100m at 0:15 am of the 26th because of bad weather: windy, misty, wind blowing snow around. They returned to C4, waited there for better weather, which they got; in perfect weather they set off again at 10:43 pm on the 26th and were on the summit on 27 May at 7:26 am. They went down to C2 at 5:40 pm.

Other non-summiting members:

Andrews arrived at BC late on 24 April, was sick, never went higher, left expedition in early May.

Campbell on 23 May went up to 8535m while guiding his client Massad and turned back with him.

Freeman went to 7000m on 22 May and gave up; he wasn't strong enough for a very big mountain.

Harter got to C2, had a throat problem and left team on 15 May.

Kuo was out of condition, very slow, got only halfway through the Icefall and left the expedition on about 10 May; he took a horse from Lobuche to Namche Bazar.

Lowry got to C3, then decided on 20 May the climb was too much for him.

Massad got to 8535m, then quit.

Parazynski reached C3 on 21 May, got back spasms and quit.

Shaw went into the Icefall several times but got to the top of it slowly and with difficulty; left the team about 8 or 10 May.

[Monty] Smith got a bad nosebleed in C2 on 22 May and stopped climbing, took a helicopter from Lobuche.

Oxygen was used by all members in C3 and above and down to C3 or C1. All Sherpas used it to sleep in C3, sleep in C4, climb above C4, and descend to C3.

Sherpas:
Ang Namgyal, 22/6/86, Phortse/Pangboche, Everest X2
Chewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
Da Nuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu X1
Dawa Nuru, aka Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X7
Dawa Sona, 5/12/65, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
Finjo Dorje, 3/9/86, Pangboche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77, Hatiya, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
Kancha Nuru, 30/11/82 (15/8/2039), Phortse, no 8000ers
Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
Mingma Tshering, 26/4/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Pangboche (not Phortse), Everest X2 (with Tucker)
Pasang Sherpa, 12/8/78 (28/4/2035), born in Salleri, moved to Thamo after
marriage
Pasang Nuru, 30/1/73 (17/10/2029), Phortse
Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
Phinzo Sherpa, 23/4/71, Phortse, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X6
Samduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83, Pangboche, Everest X2