원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face.

Altitude Junkies to Everest, led by Philip Crampton - 4 June 2008

The first summit party left C4 for the summit at 8:20 pm on 20 May. They were Crampton, Herbert, Lawes, Nawang Wangchu and Chhedar Sherpa. At 11:30 pm, when Herbert was at 8400m was at 8400m, he was too exhausted to continue his ascent; he and Nawang Wangchu returned to C4 at 12:30 am of the 21st. Lawes reached 8670m at 7:30 am, then lost the sight in his left eye, apparently because of the same eye problem -- pressure on his optical nerve -- that afflicted two members of the Adventure Consultants' Everest team led by Michael Roberts. Lawes, Herbert, Chhedar and Nawang Wangchu turned back together; Cheddar stayed in C4 waiting for Crampton to go to the summit and return to C4, while the others descended to C3.

Crampton reached the summit at 7:45 am on 21 May and went down to C4 to stay the night. After Crampton arrived in C4, Cheddar descended to C2.

The second summit party left C4 at 8:00 pm on 23 May. They were two members, Farmer and Reisinger, with three Sherpas, Pasang Dawa, Lhakpa Nuru and Ang Sarki. Ang Sarki turned back just below the Balcony's 8500m because of frostbite; his toes had gotten frostbitten from C3 but he continued up nonetheless; now, at 11:00 pm on the 23rd, it was very cold and he saw a long line of climbers ahead of him, so he turned around and went down to C2, where he arrived at 1:00 pm on the 24th.

Farmer, Pasang Dawa and Lhakpa Nuru reached the summit on 24 May at 5:37 am. They stayed there only five minutes before going back to C4 at 10 am. They went down to C2 on the 25th.

Oxygen was used by all members except Crampton to sleep in C3, climb and sleep above it to their high points, and down to and in C3. Crampton used it from just below C4, at about 7900m to and in C4 to the top, and to but not in C3. All the Sherpas used it in C4 to their high point to and in C4.

Other non-summiting members:

Dickson got to 6700m, the foot of the Lhotse Face, then abandoned his climb on 22 May because of a chest infection.

Hoby was very tired when she reached C3 on 22 May, so abandoned her climb.

Jackson got to 6700m on 14 May, then quit climbing because of his chest infection.

Fixed rope: from C2 to C3.

Sherpas:
Ang Sarki, 18/5/61 (5/2/2018), Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, Solu, no 8000ers
Chhedar Sherpa, December 1962, Sisuwakhola, Makalu vdc, Everest X3
Lhakpa Nuru, 24/6/78 (10/3/2035), Tate, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, no 8000ers
Nawang Wangchu, 31/5/73 (18/2/2030), Choplung, Solu, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1
Pasang Dawa, 14/7/77, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest 18/5/07