원정 개요

BC at bottom of Icefall
C1 at Rongbuk Glacier below Khumbutse and below North Spur from West Shoulder
C2 about 250m below West Shoulder
C3 at east end of West Shoulder
High point at West Shoulder.

Started fixing route on 4th Sept and finished it 18th Sept: same route as successful Poles 1989 Spring up over Khumbutse and down couloir to Banglark glacier, using 1500m of rope. From C1 fixed rope from bottom of N Spur to middle of spur. C2 placed in crevasse for protection from strong winds. Climbing shoulder very difficult because half-meter deep powder snow. 3 Oct went down according to plan: returned to 7200m on 11th Oct, but couldn't reach C3 because of wind and abandoned attempt on W Ridge and expedition ended.

2 members left BC 5 Oct (had had enough), one member left 13 Oct (Lwow had decided expedition finished) and last 2 members left BC 17 Oct.

On 15 Oct Lwow and Klimine of USSR-US expedition left BC and reached 6700m (USSR-US C2) on the normal route, slept there and 16th brought down equipment. Lwow had hoped to go on up but wind of 15/16 night and 16th morning prevented upward climb so now on 16th Lwow abandoned Everest.

Lwow says German nor any member of this team climbed Pumori, but Mal Duff says one member did about 1 Oct.