원정 개요

5 Annapurna II members - 11 May 80
C4 24 April at 7000m
Accident 26 April
C1 - 4200m - 27 March
C2 - 5200m - 1 April
C3 - 6300m - 12 April

All surviviors arrive KTM yesterday.

C4 highest point reached by 5 members and 1 Sherpa (not Hirata, who not so well); they staged 25 April in C4.

Tanabe and Nozaki met in good condition 26 April and descended with Nishikawa that day; going to C3 and planned Doi, Inoue and 1 Sherpa next day to C5.

Tanabe fell at 6700m on 26 April during descent; was sick and slipped; was jumaring down fixed rope, but then at traverse slipped and fell 10m on 60 degree slope and injured.

Nishikawa made biv for Tanabe, but now Nishikawa had bad headache. Tanabe died at 8:00 pm of exhaustion and exposure and perhaps altitude sickness.

27 April - Nishikawa thought Tanabe sleeping, but finds early am he dead and now decides Tanabe died evening before. Nishikawa goes up to C4, those in C4 then descend. All reached BC with body 30 April.

1 May - body cremated at BC; ash and bones placed under Cwm with stones saying Tanabe sleep here and date. Inoue takes some bone to family in Japan.

Route was North Face. C4 little below West Ridge; C4 would have been on Ridge.


Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80

Leader Inkuo Tanabe, 36, Toyama prefecture, engineer

26 April accident after established 7000m C4; when returning for goods, leader fell and died at above same altitude as camp.

All others well; body to be carried to BC and cremated there. Expedition abandoned.
Message dated 1 May


Tanabe & Co. - 6 March 80

Japan-Kamiichi Hasokai Himalaya Expedition 1980
Leader Ikuo Tanabe

Route same as 1978 British and 1971 Japanese from north via Marshyangdi to Pisang, up Salatang Khola to BC at 3500m.

5 members now in KTM, 1 more member arrives 15 March.

Leave KTM to Pokhara by truck 16; leave 17 March with 60 porters for 10 days march to BC.

North Face is snow; West Ridge is rock and very narrow; ridge most difficult part with snow and icefall section on faace between 5200 and 6300m (between C2 and C3).

2 Sherpas above BC including Ang Temba (Namche).
No oxygen at all.
Arrive BC 27 March, summit 25-28 April

BC - 3500m
C1 - 4400m
C2 - 5200m
C3 - 6300m
C4 - 6900m
C5 - 7300m on ridge