원정 개요

BC at Khumbu Glacier
C1 above Khumbu icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col.

Krol and Pemba Chhuti left C5 at 9:20 pm on 21 May, reached summit at 9:35 am on 22 May, stayed on summit one hour. It was cloudy, could not see other mountains, but no wind and not cold. Descended to C4 about 2 pm, rested at C4 for one and half hours, then went to C3 where they reached at 5 pm. Spent night at C3 and next day to BC. On summit day ahead of Krol team there were about 60 climbers and about 20-30 climbers behind them. Krol returned Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 30 May.

Magrel climbed up to 6500m on 12 May. He suffered from breathing problem at the beginning while in C2. He consulted with BC doctor who told him there was no reason to leave BC to lower altitude. He remained at BC for 8 days, but his health condition did not improve and decided to go to lower altitude. In Pheriche he recovered and went back to BC. Third time 12 May he went to C2 and same problem started heart pain and high pulse which never happened before. On 15 May Magrel decided to give up climbing Everest and left BC same day. Arrived Kathmandu on 18 and left same day. The team planning to come in Oct/Nov for Ama Dablam.

This team was on the permit for Project Himalaya (Jamie McGuinness).

Sherpa:
Pemba Chhuti/Chhoti, 15/7/73 (passport says 21/12/73), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha,
Everest X2