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MSIG Everest 2008

Everest · 2008 · 봄 (1) · New Zealand

원정 개요

On 25 May team did first summit push. Left C3 at 8 am, when they reached 7600m at 1 pm. They decided to turn back as they were moving too slowly. They descended to C2, where they arrived between 7 pm and 8 pm. On 26 May they descended to BC.

Burns left BC on 28 May and Schmidt decided to attempt 1-day ascent. He left BC at 6 pm on 28 May, reached C2 at 8:30 pm, C2 at 9:15 pm where he rested for 30 minutes, 10:15 he reached bottom of Lhotse wall (6700m). He reached C3 at 12:15 am, put up a tent and rested till 1:15 am. He reached C4 at 3:45 am. He was looking for oxygen (medical) that was supposed to have been left for him but could not find it. It made him feel uneasy but he still carried on towards the summit. But when he reached 8200m at 5:30 am he decided to turn back due to bad cough and the fact that there was no back up oxygen at South Col. He descended to C4 at stayed there until 12 noon. He descended to C2 (dismantled C3 on way), where he arrived at 8 pm. On 30 May he descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

Schmidt was on his own without oxygen and Sherpa support.

This team was on the permit for Project Himalaya (Jamie McGuinness).

  • 내부 원정 ID5986
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER08127
  • 대장Marty Schmidt
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8200m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유보급·장비 (8)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Martin Walter (Marty) SchmidtNew ZealandLeader---
Timothy P. BurnsUSAClimber---

출처·참고문헌

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