원정 개요

Approach: Thame->Bhote Koshi->Chhule->Thengbo Khola->Pangbuk Glacier->Menlung Glacier

BC at Menlung Glacier east of point 5762m
C1 at foot of SE Face.

From BC up SE Face to foot of East Ridge, where placed C1. 11 March down to BC and returned to C1 14 March and went day to top. Left C1 3:00 am and on top 10:35 am (ridge difficult).


Japanese Dingjung Ri expedition, Spring 2008 - 24 March 2008

From Lukla, team trekked to Thami, up Bhote Kosi River to Chhule village, west up Thengbo Khola to Menlung Glacier (HMG's Namche Bazar map) aka Pangbuk Glacier (Schneider Rolwaling map). BC was pitched on 7 March at 4970m on the glacier east of HMG map's point 5762m.

C1 was occupied on 10 March at 5435m at foot of SE Face. They returned to BC on the 11th for two days rest, then back to C1 on the 14th.

From C1, the two members climbed the face to 5900m and from there up the East Ridge to the summit. The face was fairly steep (50 degrees) loose rock and therefore somewhat difficult. (In their first attempt last spring, the face was covered by snow, but there was no snow on it this year). The ridge was covered in ice.

They fixed 200 meters of rope on the face from 5600m to 5750m because of falling rock. They fixed no more rope on the mountain, even on the more difficult sawtooth East Ridge, which was perhaps 40 degrees steep; some of its teeth were sharp, others were rounded off.

The two members left C1 for the top at 3:00 am on 15 March, were on the summit together at 10:35 am and returned to C1 at 6:30 pm, tired but happy at their success. The weather on the summit day was very good: no wind, no clouds.