원정 개요

Japanese to Thorong Peak - 13 Nov 2007

The team were not entirely certain which mountain is Thorong Peak; they believe it is point 6144 on HMG map "Muktinath 2883 04," but the tourism ministry gave its height as 5751m on their permit. It is not a shoulder of Khatang Kang but is a separate mountain very near Khatang Kang. They heard that a British team had been climbing it two weeks before them.

They climbed their mountain from Thorong La, where the made their BC at 5400m on 9 November. They went south past a small lake, over point 5402m on the HMG map and south up the northern slope of Thorong Peak.

The slope was not very steep: most of it 20 degrees, but the upper part was 30 degrees of snow and ice, where they needed to use crampons. It was not technically difficult, but they fixed 300m of rope: 200m from 5600m to 5700m on mixed snow, ice and rock, and 100m near the summit.

They left BC at 5:45 am on 19 November and at 11:15 am all six members plus three Nepalese climbers, sirdar Pasang Tamang, Hit Bahadur Tamang, Ang Dawa Tamang and the cook, Gadget Bis Gurung, were on the summit. They returned to BC at 4:15 pm and left BC on the 11th.

Nepalese staff:
Ang Dawa Tamang, 32-33 years old, Kerung-5, Solu
Hit Bahadur Tamang, 1971-2 (2028), Deusa-6, Solu
Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X3
Gadget Bis Gurung (cook), 32-33 years old, Makalu vdc