원정 개요

BC at high BC of Austrian expedition
C1 at start of steep part of Chago Glacier
C2 at Makalu La.

21 Sept began to snow and in 2 days 1.5m snowfall at BC. Cook got altitude sickness and team had to wait at BC until helicopter rescued him from BC. 1 Oct went to 6100m and down to BC. 3 Oct to 6350m where pitched C1 at beginning of steep section, 100m above Chago Glacier where again there is flat area. 4 Oct climbed in deep snow up to 6500m and down to BC that day. 7 Oct to C1, 8th to 7000m and back to BC. 12th to C1, moved Camp to 6700m. 13th to Makalu La and made C2 there. 14th to BC. "Lot of wind a lot of snow" on mountain. Next day more snowfall and climb finished: weather getting worse with wind and snow. "Beautiful mountaineering, wonderful to be alone" (no other people anywhere) said Meroi.

Cook was Indra Bahadur Magar, 31 years old, from Kerung, Solu.