원정 개요

BC at Tsangbu left side of glacier
C1 at west of Tsangbu
High point at couloir.

Fixed 100m towards bottom of couloir 22 Sept. 23rd all members had headaches so down to BC. It rained till 30 Sept. 1 Oct to C1 in 60cm snow and tent crushed by snow, so down to BC for another tent. 2nd Oct took new tent to C1 and slept there. 3rd Oct to bottom of couloir, where discovered crampons and rope were under snow and couldn't find them, so down to BC. 4th Oct to couloir directly and fixed 500m rope there in knee-deep snow; progress very slow and therefore danger of being hit by avalanching during long exposure. Down to BC on 4th and rain again that night. 5th to C1 but snow conditions not safe and climb finished and so down to BC. Had long 2m pole searching for gear at bottom of couloir and found ice axe.