원정 개요

Kanti Himal Expedition - 18 October 2007

The aim of the expedition was actually to attempt to climb Rongla Kangri (6647m), which is actually in Tibet northeast of the 6516m border peak in the Kanti Himal range. They took a permit for Kanti's highest peak, 6859m, farther southeast along the border of the 6516m peak, since that is the peak on the Nepalese government's permitted list.

Their approach march took them from Jumla to Gangadhi, Mugu Karnali river, Mugu Khola to Mugu village and Koji Khola. Base camp was pitched on 23 September beside the Koji Khola at 4050m south-southwest of the 6516m peak.

From there they moved northeast to a spot near the west end of a sizeable lake and established advance base camp here on 1 October at 5250m. From here, "it was very exciting going into the Hidden Valley of the Upper Rongla Glacier" on 3 October, Hughes said.

C1 was pitched on 4 October north-northeast of ABC at 5750m just over the border in Tibet close to an unnamed 5984m peak, which is on the border.

From C1 they attempted to surmount a rock band north of the camp to reach Rongla Kangri. On the 5th, Wickens and Colton climbed up the firm snow and ice covering the rock, but 60-70 mph wind and white-out forced them to retreat from an altitude of 5850m. On the 8th, Hughes made his attempt to climb the band, and reached about the same point, above which the flaky granite rock would need fixing; he also retreated from 5850m.

Hughes then soloed peak 5984m via its north ridge of mixed snow, ice and rock and skied down to C1. Next day, the 9th, Hughes, Colton and Wickens scaled another unnamed peak 5930m high just south of peak 5984m and also on the border. They climbed the SW Ridge on consolidated snow. These first ascents were "consolation prizes" for their inability to reach Rongla Kangri. At this time, Freeman-Attwood was in ABC not feeling well.

The team left BC to return to Kathmandu on the 10th. During the 17 days they were in BC or above, it snowed for nine and a half days. But they enjoyed immensely exploring this wild area where no one had been before -- and pleased with their consolation prizes.