원정 개요

Approach: Bus to Sundarijal, Saribesi->Tatopani->Jungle Kharka on Bharrange Khola.

Ganesh V Expedition led by Mathieu Maynadier - 20 Nov 2007

The team began their approach to the mountain by taking a bus to Sundarijal in the northeast of the Kathmandu Valley and from there trekking to Saribesi, Tatopani, Jungle Kharka on the Bharrange Khola, then northwest along the khola. On 26 October they arrived at their BC at 4051m (near point 4064m on HMG's Ganesh Himal map, sheet No 2885-09), northeast of Paldor and south-southwest of Ganesh V.

Then they moved north to Pt 4700m on HMG's map, which is near the eastern end of the East Ridge, and pitched C1 at 5500m at the start of the East Ridge on 1 Nov.

From C1 the four members moved up the East Ridge and made a series of bivouacs at 6050m on the 12th, 6300m on the 13th, and 6508m on the 14th. On the 15th, they arrived at the East Summit (6741m) from their third bivouac, which they had left at 9:00 am and to which they returned at 9:30 pm.

The ridge from a pass (which they reached at 4:00 pm) on their way to the East Summit was the most technical part of their climb on 100m of mixed ice and rock and 200m of rock only.

They did not go on to the Main Summit because the weather report received from France had forecast strong wind, and it did become very strong (90-100 km/hr) during their descent to the third bivouac.

On the 16th, they left the third bivouac at 9:00 am and were back in BC at 10:30 pm that day.

All four members fingertips became numb from the cold.

They fixed only 60m of rope on the mountain, between C1 and their first bivouac.