원정 개요

BC at 400m west from base of Jasemba Goth (6730m)
High point at 6540m West Summit of Friendship Peak [Nupche Kang].

Even though team had permit for Pasang Lhamu Chuli they never really intended to climb it. McCann was on Cho Oyu in autumn 2005 and when he saw Friendship Peak he knew he wanted to ski it one day so that was the real goal (he saw the China-Nepal team on it). On 15 Sept team established BC just below Jasemba Goth. On 16 Sept McCann climbed an unnamed peak (6228m) west of the Nangpa La. He started from BC at 9:30 am and summited at 2 pm. He skied ("skinned") up the lower part of the mountain. The weather was good and skiing conditions perfect. He skied back to BC in 45 minutes. Merrill and Reddish climbed up to 5850m that day and skied down. McCann summited the same peak on 18 Sept, 20 Sept and 21 Sept. Each time he climbed and skied the West Face apart from 21 Sept when he climbed ad skied the East Face together with Reddish.

On 19 Sept McCann climbed up the cwm between Jasemba Goth and Friendship Peak. He reached about 6000m and skied down.

On 22 Sept McCann climbed West Ridge of Jasemba Goth. He reached 6500m but stopped there as he was exhausted. He had spent about one hour trying to put in an ice screw for self-belay, which was hard work and exhausted him. He had left BC at 6:30 am. There was fresh snow and skiing conditions were fantastic. He reached high point at 9:45 am and skied back to BC in 1 hour and 45 minutes. Reddish and Merrill had a rest day on 22 Sept.

On 23 Sept the whole team tackled Friendship Peak. They left BC at 6:30 am. McCann summited at 11 am, Merrill at 3:30 pm. Reddish got to 6050m but turned back as weather was deteriorating. He skied from high point at about 1 am and got to BC at 1:30 am. McCann skied down, however, the first 400m were a complete white-out; visibility was about 4 meters. He got back down to Nangpa La at 11:45 am and waited there for a while and watched Merrill.

On 24 Sept McCann climbed another 6136m peak west of BC (opposite Jasemba). He reached about 5900m on the North Face and skied down.

Team skied down all the way on all descents.

McCann estimated Friendship Peak altitude at 6600m
Ohnishi's map says 6676m
HMG-Finnish map 6576m.
Chinese in 2005 said 6592m.