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BC near Nangpa La on Chinese side
ABC near Nangpa La.

2005 China-Nepal Friendship Expedition - Autumn 2005 led by Ci Luo and Da Gombu Sherpa

The Chinese invited the Nepal Mountaineering Association in 2005 to participate in a joint expedition to an "unclimbed peak located at 86.61 N and 28.10 E rising 6592 meters above the sea level. It is on the border between China and Nepal. This expedition will climb from China side."

The NMA sent ten Nepalse climbers, all Sherpas, under the leadership of Da Gombu Sherpa of Bung. The Chinese contingent consisted of six Han Chinese and eight Tibetans; all were considered to be members -- no hired Sherpas or Tibetans.

The mountain is not on the Nepalese tourism ministry list of permitted peaks, so there is no official Nepalese government altitude. According to the HMG/Finnish map Sheet No. 2886-15 "Pasang Lhamu Chuli," there is a mountain on the Tibetan border at about the longitude and latitude given by the Chinese and is given as 6576 meters high. Tamotsu Ohnishi's July 2004 Khumbu map shows one summit, but it actually has two summits; the east one is the higher one, while the west one is perhaps 50 meters lower. They are impressively visible from nearby Cho Oyu. The two maps give it no name: there is no known local name, so the expedition dubbed it Friendship Peak.

The Nepalese members approach was via Zangmu and Tingri to a Chinese base camp for the area of Cho Oyu very near the Nangpa La -- southeast of the pass, half an hour's walk away at 4900m, where the Nepalese and Chinese members met on 26 September. The joint expedition made their ABC at 5355m near the Nangpa La on 29 September and from here they climbed the South Face of the main (east) summit close to its East Ridge (which is rather rounded, not a sharp ridge).

They went to the top from ABC in two parties in one day each. The face presented no serious difficulties, but 250 meters of rope were fixed from 5900m to 6000m up the 60-65 degree snow and ice slope.

The first summit party left ABC on 1 November at 4:30 am Nepalese time, were on the top at 9:30 am and back in ABC at 11:30 am.

The second party's members were older. They left ABC at 4:00 am, reached the top at 10:15 am, and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm. after having spent time taking a lot of pictures in and around the Nangpa La.

Chinese Summiters:

1 October:
Lho Tu
Sun Bin
Zhou Xiang

2 October:
Ci Luo, 3/7/78, Lhasa, Everest 24/5/98.
Li Fuging
Wang Yong-Feng, 23/12/63, Beijing, Everest 5/5/93

Tibetan summiters:

1 October:
Degin Ozhu [Dechen Ngodup]
Qimi Tashi/Chimi Tashi
Tshering Dunzhu/Tshering Thendup
Tshering Sangzhu [aka Ms. Tsering Wangmu?]

2 October:
Awang Tashi/Ngawang Tashi, 1983, Tashi Zom
Luobu Zhandui [Norbu Dhendup]
Nawang Lubu [Ngawang Norbu]
Nima Tshering [Nima Ciren], Everest 21/5/03?

Nepalese summiters:

1 October:
Lam/Lama Babu Sherpa, 29/9/68, Cheremy, Bung, Solu, Everest X3
Lhakpa Sherpa, 28/7/72, Khijiphalate-2, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa, 1/10/77, Thamo, Everest X2
Pemba Dorje Sherpa, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Tashi Sherpa, 18/4/79, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1

2 October:
Chewang Dorje Sherpa, Ang Rita's son, 18/7/75, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
Da Gombu Sherpa, 9/7/58, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1
Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70 (8/3/2027), Tapting-9
Kishor Shahi, 4/8/74, Kathmandu, outdoor adventure company owner, no 8000ers
(trekking peaks only)
Krishna Bahadur Tamang, aka Jeta, 25/9/68, Kanku, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2