원정 개요

C1 just below Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge
High point on NE Ridge.

22nd Sept went up to 6900m from C2 to acclimatize and back to C2. 23rd to BC to rest. Heavy snowfall from 23rd night to 25th; Ericsson stayed in BC waiting for snow to stop falling and avalanche danger to pass. 2nd Oct up to C1, rested on 3rd, 4th up to 6200m, turned back because again snowfall and down to BC again to wait for storm to end. Up once more on 10th to C1, stayed on extra night because snowing again. 12th to C2 and 13th to C3. Actually there were no fixed camps; he had only one tent which he carried up and down. 14th he made bid for summit; got to about 7400m, but now snow was knee-deep and unstable, so too dangerous to continue. Began his ski descent from here and skied all the way to BC; he stopped at 7200m to pack up his tent but kept his skis on. It was snowing at 6700-6800m and small avalanches were coming down. At the icefall, he skied down the left side of crevasses. Got slightly lost in the dark at about 6:00 pm and went too close to crevasse and had to walk (on skis) up about 50m to find his track and on down to BC at 9:00 pm. Climb now finished. His permit expired on 15th and "I was tired." Climbed sometimes with members of other teams but had no one with him; he originally had a team-mates who dropped out last summer. He wants to come again next year to Dhaulagiri I with a team-mate.