원정 개요

BC near lake
C2 at top of a buttress (normal site).

Fixed rope from C1 to C2 only. Route led to big pass and then towards summit around seracs, etc. ("not a good ridge"). After C2 established, all to BC. Summit push began 12th Sept. To C1 that night by 4 members and 2 Sherpas. 14th all 6 to C2. On 15th Feruglio, Laurenceau, Roche and Dawa leave C2 at 3:00 am because snow conditions better: at 6:30 am sun is on SE Face and reached top at 11:00 am together and all Ok. But at 7:30-8:00 am avalanche hit Marigot, Saidi and Gyalzen at about 6600m when small avalanche came from face down small gullies; had left C2 6:30 am because Saidi and Gyalzen slightly sick from stomach. Roche told them to stay in camp, but Marigot came up from C1 and urged Saidi and Gyalzen down (roped together but Marigot not roped to them, was 15m from them). Marigot stayed on face waiting for summit party but radioed to Everest BC about avalanche and 4 Sherpas. Pivot and wife (Dr.) reached Pumori BC 9:00-10:00 am, saw 2 bodies on face from Everest BC. Bodies at same altitude as C1 but very dangerous to go to them because of dangerous unstable seracs. Next day bodies covered by more avalanches.