원정 개요

Ama Dablam Expedition 2007 led by Haavard Gjerdset - 20 November 2007

First summit party were Haavard Gjerdset, Elin Gjerdset, Gravem, Haugen, Oystein Olai Heggen, Saebo, Tommeras, Pasang Dawa, Phur Sona, Pema Chhosang and Karma Sarki. They left C2 at 3:00 am on 11 November and were buffeted by strong wind from 6300m up.

Elin Gjerdset got to 6700m and asked the Sherpa with her how far they were from the top; he said it would take them one or two hours more -- when actually they were quite close -- she turned back to C2. Saebo had reached 6700m, but was moving slowly and developing cerebral edema; when he was met by Haavard Gjerdset, who was descending from the summit, he turned back and they went to C2 together. The others, including Haavard Gjerdset, were on the top at 2:30 pm and were back in C2 at 8:30 pm.

As Gravem descended from the summit and got to the site of C3 (6300m), he from some unknown cause became blind although speaking and thinking clearly and had to be helped to descend from there. The team had two tents at the Mushroom Ridge and two Sherpas went down with him to the tents while two other Sherpas in two hours in the dark brought up from C2 a sleeping bag and other gear for him in this shelter from the cold night. This saved him from dying of exposure. He got better quickly, and in C2 on the 12th he had fully recovered; but he had five badly frostbitten fingers which had turned black but are expected to heal. Then as he trekked from BC to Namche Bazar, one leg became swollen; he was flown by helicopter from Namche to Kathmandu, where he was diagnosed as having deep leg thrombosis.

Second Summit party were Gundersen, Sandbakk, Sandberg, Svengaard, Lhakpa Gelu, Lhakpa Thundu and Lhakpa Sona. They left C2 at 2:30 am on the 13th. Sandberg turned back at 6300m because he was getting cold and realized he would not get to the top; Lhakpa Gelu went down with him to C2. The others reached the summit between 10:30 and 11:30 am in good weather with no wind and were back in C2 at 4:30 to 5:00 pm.

Illnesses and frostbite: See above in first summit party, Saebo began to get cerebral edema, and Gravem was temporarily blind, got frostbite and deep leg thrombosis.

Other members:
Ronny Heggen went to C2 only
Henriksen went to C1 only
Hexeberg went above C1 but did not reach C2
Jensen to C2 only
Noikleby to C2 only
Norseth went above C1 only
Solbakke went above C1 only
Sveen went above C1 as high as 5900m on 8 November, but was not comfortable
with the route and left expedition on 10 November to go Kalapattar.
Sund went to C2 only

Sherpas:
Karma Sarki/Serki, 25/1/87 (11/10/2043), Phortse, Everest 20/5/07
Lhakpa Gelu, 12/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Everest X2
Lhakpa Sona, 46 years old, Phortse, Manaslu in May 1987, Everest in May 1988
with Japanese-Chinese-Nepalese expedition
Lhakpa Thundu Sherpa, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
Also summited Ama Dablam with Victor Saunders on 20/10/07 and Ama Dablam with
Henry Todd on 31/10/07
Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
Climbs with Henry Todd's teams; also summited Ama Dablam with Simon Yates on
19/10/07 and Henry Todd's member on 31/10/07
Pema Chhosang, 30/4/72, Khumjung, Everest 14/5/06, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
Phur Sona, aka Ang Sona, Pangboche, 17/7/69, Everest 2/5/07