원정 개요

First went to Island Peak; all three members and both Sherpas summited on 11 Nov.

On Ama Dablam their plan was to take food and fuel with them to C3, where they could use one of Henry Todd's tents and rehydrate on their descent from summit; a Sherpa would go with them and carry sleeping bags and mats; but the Sherpa got a toothache and went down on 21 Nov instead of going up and they had no room in their packs for bags and pads as well as rope, food and fuel, so no question of their staying overnight at C3. So no choice but to descend to C2 from summit push. At couloir found rope damaged by rockfall and had to replace 70m of fixed rope, which delayed them. Now had not enough time to get to top and back to C2 before temperature dropped significantly. At 12:30 pm they had reached 6200m and decided they must turnaround and returned to C2 at 6:30 pm. Went to BC on 22nd and decided while doing descent this day did not want to make this effort to try for top again.