원정 개요

BC at Ama Dablam Glacier
ABC at bottom of NE Ridge's face
C1 on NE Ridge's face
C2 on NE Ridge
High point at NE Face-NE Ridge junction.

2007 CAC Ama Dablam East Face Expedition led by Cho You-Dong - 22 Nov 2007

The expedition climbed mostly on the NE Ridge, although they did move a short distance to the left over onto the NE Face high on the mountain before returning to the ridge at their high point of 6400m.

Their BC was pitched on the Ama Dablam Glacier below the ridge near the point where the ridge, which at its lowest (northern) end had been running due north, now reached an elbow and ran northeast. The camp was placed at 5000m on 26 October.

On 29 October, ABC was placed at 5200m at the bottom of the ridge's east face, and C1 on this face (of the NE Ridge) on 4 November. On 8 November C2 was pitched on the ridge at 6100m.

On 9 November, the first attempt was made to go for the summit from C2. Cho Dong-Yol and Deputy Leader Park got only to 6200m on the NE Face, then turned back because they found it to be a very steep rock face.

The second and last summit attempt was launched on 16 November by three members this time, Cha, Jang and Kim, from C2. They moved up the face to join the leftward slanting NE Ridge at 6400m, and here they stopped.

They had been struggling with the very steep (80 degrees) loose rock. They had come to the mountain expection snow and ice; there was too much exposed rock for them. The trio retreated to C2 and the climb was finished.

Loose rock often came falling down the mountain in huge chunks as big as an office desk (there was also some falling ice and snow). One very big rock very nearly hit Cha -- it did hit his rope and almost severed it. None of the helmet-wearing members was hurt during the climb.

The team fixed 800m of rope from C1 to C2 and another 200m from C2 to their 6400m high point.

Two members had to leave the expedition to go back to work in Korea. Shin and Yang left on 10 November.