원정 개요

Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2007 - 8 Oct 2007

Made a C1.5 on 19 Sept to halve the climb between C1 and C2 site to make the first day's climb up from ABC easy for the clients. This camp was placed at 6800m, then moved it up to the normal C2 site at 7100m the next day. They came down to ABC to rest on the 21st and then got stuck in ABC in a bad storm.

The summit party left ABC for the summit push on the 28th. They occupied C1 on the 28th, stayed there an extra day because of more bad weather, then to C2 on the 30th, and on 1 Oct set up C3.

The final push for the top was from C3 at 1:30 am NST. They were eight members and six Sherpas: Cheryl Bart and Nicole Bart, Danyliw, Elrick, Holt, Moffat, Roberts and Svavarsson, plus Mingma Tenzing, Lhakpa Dorje, Nawang Chhangba, Phu Tashi, Sange Dorje and Chuldim.

At about 8000m on the shoulder below the summit plateau, Elrick who has only one leg so uses two crutches (no prothesis), at 9:30 am abandoned his summit bid, and the two Sherpas assigned to him, Mingma Tenzing and Lhakpa Dorje turned back with him (they were needed to clip him onto and detach him from the fixed ropes and to short-rope him.) He was a very slow climber -- as seen by the fact that he was at the shoulder an hour and a half after the rest of the party were on the top. The descending summit party met him at the shoulder 9:30 am and turned him around. It was too late for him to reach the top and then return to C2, where there was a supply of more oxygen he could use. He turned out to need more oxygen than expected, so the supply for him at the shoulder was low, and his Sherpas had only one hour's supply left; they needed it descending with a very slow man in the cold weather. He and his Sherpas finally got to C2 at 5:15 pm. He was exhausted. Back in Kathmandu, Elrick said he was "physically exhausted, but the whole experience was fantastic." He was not sure whether he would try again.

The rest of the summit party, now seven members and four Sherpas, had reached the summit at 8:00 am. They had a good view of Everest, Lhotse and the Western Cwm, and returned to C2 at 4:00 pm. They wee in ABC the next day, the 3rd.

Oxygen: the summit members used it from C2 to the top to C3; Elrick used it from C2 to his high point to C2. The two Sherpas with Elrick used it from C2 to their high point to C3; they needed it with the extremely slow climber. The other Sherpas used none.

Two members left early:
Krauter left on 14 Sept because he broke his tooth on popcorn.
Haydock left on the 15th. He was not strong enough for the climb.

Sherpas:
Chuldim, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X5
Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3,
Makalu & Lhotse X1
Mingma Tenzing, 1967-68 (2024), Pare, Namche-6, Everest 21/5/07 with Guy Cotter
Nawang Chhangba, 13/9/69, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X1
Phu Tashi, 17/11/72 (2/8/2020), Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1