원정 개요

Expedition left Kathmandu by bus to Besisahar on 21 June, then trekked up the Marshyangdi River to Nar Gaon and Phu Gaon, and from there continued north to make their base for attempts on Chako and Bhrikuti. They first attempted Chako, and pitched camps as follows:

BC - 09 July - about 5000m
C1 - 13 July - 5500m on west side on small plateau
C2 - 16 July - 6200m on SW Ridge

There was a rock band beginning at 6500m and from here the SW Ridge became very steep and narrow. They fixed rope all the way from 5900m to the summit.

The summit was reached on 24 July at 11:50 am by Omura, Kamisaka, Ang Phuri Lama and Hari Bahadur Chaulagai. The summit party descended to C2 at 4:00 pm, but at about the same time an avalanche came down and destroyed one of the two tents at the camp. No one was hurt, but the two Nepalis had to go down to BC while the two Japanese slept that night at C2 and descended to BC the next day, the 25th.

Meanwhile, Makino had left the expedition on 11 July, when he decided his climb was finished, and Tanaka, who developed pulmonary edema, left the team on 21 July.

From BC on 27 July Nemoto, Kuramochi and Ang Phuri went north-northwest to the base of Bhrikuti to look for a route; they gained a little altitude to 5800m on the South Ridge but did no real climbing. They reported that there was too much danger of avalanching on Bhrikuti, so on 29 July the team left BC and retraced their steps southward to Phu Gaon and on the 30th were back in Nar Gaon.

They intended now to climb Khumjung. On 1 August, Kamisaka, Omura, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai went to look for a route and went northwest up Lapso Khola to a point due west of Phu Gaon. Here the Khola was too swollen to cross, so they retreated to Nar Gaon, and it was decided to abandon plans for Khumjung. They cleared BC and trekked to Manang's Hungde airfield on 3 Aug.

Now they went to climb the trekking peak, Chulu West. On 4 August moved to Manang village from its west side. They made a new BC at 4900m. They pitched C1 at 5600m and on the 7th Kamisaka, Kawaura, Nemoto, Omura, Watanabe, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai summited Chulu West via its west ridge and stayed on C1; they down to BC on the 8th and back in Manang village on the 9th.

Their net target was Gaugiri. On 12 Aug they crossed the Thorong La to Muktinath. On the 13th from Muktinath to Chhusang village and the east side of the Kali Gandaki River, and from there arrived at Ghumethanti on the 20th. Next day to Damodar Kund lake and on 22nd reached a good campsite in a grassy area at 5300m south of Gaugiri. But by now they were quite tired so rested here for a day and made no climbing attempt.

Finally they wanted to go northwest to Arniko Chuli. In Lho Manthang on the 27th, they learned that this was the harvesting season, and the local people believed that if foreigners entered the area, their crops would be ruined. So they abandoned plans for Arniko Chuli and trekked down the Kali Gandaki River to Beni for a bus to Kathmandu.

Nepalese climbers:
Ang Phuri Lama, sirdar - 60 years old from Beni-3
Hari Bahadur Chaulagai - 26 years old from Makalu-2
Prakash Rai, 31 years old from Makalu-6