원정 개요

The Asian Trekking expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Stefano Biffi (Italy)

Name: Italian on Everest
Camps: BC(24/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6050m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7100m),
C4(20/05,7925m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/07
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Team left C4 on 20 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear but cold. Not that many people on summit. They spent about one hour on the summit. On descent, Biffi was in front of Dorje. He arrived at C4 at noon. Dorje arrived three hours later; he was snowblinded. Nuri Sherpa guided him down. They spent two nights at South Col as Dorje was feeling unwell. They left C4 on 23 May. Dorje's snowblindness was better and he could walk himself. It took them all day to get to C2. On 24 May they descended to BC. Dorje had recovered completely by then.

Sherpa Summiter:
Dorje (Big Dorje) Sherpa


Martin Byrne (Ireland)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(06/05,7400m),
xxx-Byrne(06,21/05,7400m),xxx-Sherpa(23/05,8400m)
Left: 27/05/07
Hired: 2
Term: Route too difficult
Abandoned at 7440m by member and 8400m by Sherpa

Byrne went with Lhakpa and Pasang Sherpas to C3 on 6 May and spent one night there, then down to C2 for "a couple of nights" and down to BC for treatment at HRA's medical clinic at BC for his very bad cough, which meant his sleep was frequently broken and he lost his voice. They returned to C3 on 21 May hoping to go South Col on the 22nd for a summit bid. But instead Byrne, and Pasang with him, on the 22nd descended to C2 and for Byrne the climb was finished. According to Lhakpa, Pasang had spoken by walkie-talkie with the BC sirdar of their agency, Asian Trekking, Pertemba Sherpa, who had said that Byrne should descend because he was too slow, had taken too long to climb from C2 to C3 (12 hours, according to Lhakpa; if Byrne had used oxygen, Lhakpa said, he would have moved faster, but he never used any).

Byrne told Lhakpa he could make a summit bid, so on the 22nd Lhakpa went up from C3, using oxygen, reached the South Col despite strong wind, and took shelter in an Asian Trekking tent occupied by two Sherpas a man from Phortse with an Australian named Paul (Adler) and a Khumjung man with an Hungarian team (led by Attila Jelinko). At 9:00 that night, the teams left C4 at the Col for the summit; Lhakpa, still on oxygen, was 20 minutes behind the Australian and Hungarians leaving C4 and while the others summited, Lhakpa stopped at 1:00 am on the 23rd at about 8400m at the Balcony. He was alone, tired, buffeted by very strong cold wind, and his feet were getting cold. His oxygen ran out here, but a member of the doctor's expedition (led by Mike Grocott) helped him switch over to another bottle and to start to go down; another member of the same expedition came up from the Col and escorted him to C4 at 3:00 am. He slept here until 6:00 am, then feeling fine, he stopped using oxygen and descended unaided to C2, slept there two nights and joined Byrne in BC on the 25th.

Byrne criticized Lhakpa's use of a lot of oxygen and said that Lhakpa had not been dressed warmly enough for a summit push and had an insufficient supply of food and water with him. Pertemba had called Sherpas high on the mountain to help him down, and he was helped by Sherpas from the Jagged Globe expedition (led by Iain Peter); Lhakpa at first also said his helpers came from the Jagged Globe team, but asked whether they were from Jagged Globe or the doctor's team, he quickly agreed that they were from the doctor's expedition. (Jagged Globe people summited on the 17th and most of them left BC on 21st).

Byrne was also critical of what he called Asian Trekking and Pertemba's philosophy to get up to the top and down as early and quickly as possible. His was to acclimatize slowly and thoroughly and as a result, he and his Sherpas would have no altitude problems at all: they had trekked in from Jiri via Lhakpa's home village and spent several nights at Gorak Shep before going to BC.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/12/73, Rawadolu village, Okhaldhunga-1, no 8000ers
Pasang Sherpa, 10/7/76, Siddha Pokhari, Kerabari, Makalu, Everest 31/5/05


Stephen Giesecke (USA)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),
C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 22/05/07
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 19 May. Weather was calm but pretty warm. Giesecke had to take off a layer at 8200m. When they got to summit about 18 people where on summit and atleast 12 of them were Sherpas. Good views from summit, but clouds at about 7000m. They spent about 20 minutes on summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 21 May they descended to BC on 21 May. Expedition went well. Giesecke was well apart from a stomach bug.

Sherpa Summiters:
Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 4/10/74, Khumjung, Everest 17/5/2004, Cho Oyu X1
Cheddar Sherpa, Dec 1962, Sisuwakhola, Makalu VDC, Everest X2


Dirk Stephan (Germany)

Name: German on Everest
Camps: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7300m),
C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 21/05/07
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Team left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. Weather calm and clear. Snow condition good. He thinks that two steps below South Summit are more difficult than Hillary Step. Step used to be covered in ice, but now rock. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Good views. Descent was hard due to heat. In C4, where they arrived at 8 am, Stephan took off down suit and continued to descend in fleece. They carried on to C2 and arrived at 1 pm. Next day they went to BC and Lobuche.

Sherpa Summiter:
Phu Tashi Sherpa


Johan Nilson (Sweden)

Name: Climate Neutral Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6900m),C3(14/05,7100m),
C4(15/05,8000m),Smt(16/05)
Left: 20/05/07
Hired: 1 (Kami Sherpa, also deputy leader of Nepal TV Lions Club Expedition expedition)
Term: Success

Team left C4 at 11 am on 15 May. It was snowing but stopped when they reached the Balcony at about 7 am. Good views from summit. Nilson and Kami were on summit with Benegas. Apparently first group to summit from south side this season. They stayed about 20 minutes and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3:30 pm. On 17 May they descended to C2 and back to BC on 18 May. Nilson's plastic boot broke at about 8200m on ascent. Zipper did not close but they fixed it with duct tape. He says he's lucky that he did not get frostbite as it was very cold.


Meagan McGrath (Canada)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(13/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),
C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
Left: ?
Hired: 1
Term: Success

McGrath and Rita Dorje left C4 at 9:47 pm on 20 May. It was clear and cold. Good views from summit. About 25 people on summit. They spent about 35 minutes on summit. On descent they found Nepali climber Usha Bista, just below at 8350m. She was resting, her oxygen mask was askew and she was obviously unwell, but still on way up. Bista was completely alone with her oxygen mask cord was wrapped around her neck. She was just a mess. McGrath and Chuck from AC and another Sherpa helped Bista down for about 20m. Then Dave Hahn arrived and helped and dragged her to C4. There they gave her some Dex and got her down to C3. McGrath and Ang Rita descended to C2, arrived at 4 pm and the next day to BC. Usha Bista was flown out of BC on 24 May. Apparently she had frostbite.

With her ascent McGrath has become youngest Canadian to do the 7 summits.

Sherpa Summiter:
Rita Dorje Sherpa


Dawa Steven Sherpa (Nepal)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),
C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/07
Hired: 0
Term: Success

Dawa Steven left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. He was with Boy Scouts' Figg. Weather was calm and clear. There were about 40 people on top. Dawa stayed 1 hour on top. It was very warm. He descended to C4 as he was coming down. He bumped into Dave Hahn, who was helping Usha Bista with 2 other Sherpas halfway between C4 and the Balcony. He helped stabilize Usha. He arrived at C4 at 11:30 am. On 22 May he descended to C2 but on his way he stopped at below Yellow Band at about 7800m where he saw Pemba Doma's body and helped bring her body down to C3. They wrapped her in insulation material (mats) and belayed her body down. It took from 8 am to 4:30 pm, when he reached C3. They built a platform together wth Willy Benegas and put her body on it. Dawa Steven carried on to C2 the same day, where he arrived at 6 pm. On 23 May he descended to BC.

On 24 May Dawa ascended to "Football Field" in middle of Icefall to help bring down Pemba Doma's body but descending Sherpas told him not to carry on due to precarious conditions of the Icefall. In the afternoon the Icefall collapsed at the top! On 25 May he went back up to meet the helpers who were bringing down the body down the last 3/4 of the Icefall. They were 11 people involved in the operation. They reached BC at 3:30 pm. Dawa left BC same at 5:30 pm.


Ravichandran Tharumalingam (Malaysia)

Name: Malaysian on Everest
Camps: BC(07/04,5250m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(19/04,8000m),
xxx(20/05,8300m)
Left: 22/05/07
Hired: 0
Term: Frostbite
Abandoned at 8300m due to coldness of amputed fingers

BC at Khumbu Glacier
C1 above the Khumbu Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 at South Col (did not sleep)
High point almost to the Balcony.

Tharumalingam left South Col at 9 pm on 19 May. He reached 8300m. He does not remember the time but it may be after about 3 hours. Tharumalingam, at that point realized that his amputed fingers started getting cold and also his thumb, so he then decided to turn back to South Col. It took him about 2 hours to reach South Col on 20 May. He had rest at C4 for a while then went down to C2 where he reached at about 11:30 pm and slept there. Next day to BC.

There was no personal Sherpa assigned to him.

He returned to Kathamdu on 25 May and will leave on 2 June. First he stayed at Hotel Metropolitan Kantipur for some days and moved to Everest Hotel.


Paul Adler (Australia)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(13/05,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),
C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 25/05/07
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Summit team left C4 at 9:45 am on 22 May together with Jelinko and his team. It was windy and cold but clear. When they got to summit about 20 people were on top. Adler was having problems with his oxygen mask and nearly ran out of oxygen but found new bottle on South Summit. When he got to the Balcony he noticed that he was getting snowblind. He rested at C4, arrived at 9 am. He rested for 1 hour and descended to C2, arrived at 3 pm. Adler had trouble finding the rope but Lhakpa Nuru guided him. On 24 May he descended to BC; by that time his eyes were completely recovered. He helped a Singaporian out of a crevasse.

Sherpa Summiters:
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
Pemba Tshering Sherpa


Attila Jelinko (Hungary)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(13/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),
C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 25/05/07
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Jelinko, Mingma Nurbu and Tenzing Dorje left C4 at 9:45 am on 22 May together with Adler's team. Weather was clear, but cold and windy. Many people on the route. When they got to summit, 20 people were on top. On way down problems with oxygen. Descended to C2, arrived at 3 pm. Next day BC.

Sherpa Summiters:
Mingma Nurbu Sherpa
Tenzing Dorje Sherpa


Rudolf Praschl-Bichler (Austria)

Name: Dream Everest
Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7300m),
C4(19/05,8000m),xxx(19/05,8200m)
Left: 22/05/07
Hired: 0
Term: Lack of strength
Abandoned at 8200m due to loads too heavy, no oxygen

Praschl-Bichler left C4 on 19 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear and calm. When he reached 8200m, he felt too exhausted to carry on, so he turned back. He descended to C4 from where he helped Malaysian Climber Ravi, who was unwell to descend to C2. Next day they arrived at C2 at 1 pm on 20 May. On 21 May to BC.


Cristina Piolini (Italy)

Name: Italian on Everest & Lhotse
Camps: BC(01/05,5200m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7100m),
C4(20/05,8000m),xxx(21/05,8400m)
Left: 26/05/07
Hired: 0
Term: Bad weather
Abandoned at 8400m due to high winds, very cold

High point at Balcony.

Piolini arrived at C4 on 20 May at 2 pm. She was with Mrs Pemba Doma who later died on Lhotse. They spent night there. Pemba left for Lhotse at 2 am on 21 May. Piolini wanted to come with her, but had a bad feeling about Lhotse, so she remained in Lhotse C4 till 9 am. Then she traversed to C4 on South Col, where she arrived at 1 pm. She pitched tent and tried to help Stephano Biffi's Sherpa Dorje who was snowblind. At 6:30 pm she left C4 for Everest summit push. Temperature was -38 degrees and it was very windy. When she arrived at Balcony at 10:45 pm, her feet were very cold and it was too windy to continue, so she descended to C4 and arrived at 3 am. Her tent was blown away by the wind because tent was empty.

She spent night in tent with Biffi and Dorje. She spent 3 days and night there with them. They left 23 May and descended to C2. Pemba Doma's husband was there looking for the body of his wife. On 24 May she descended to BC with Biffi and Dorje. A huge piece of the Icefall came down just after Biffi, Dorje and Piolini had crossed that section.

When she got down to BC she noticed that her feet were slightly frostbitten. However, she will be able to keep all toes.