원정 개요

Team wanted to walk in through river valley of Kag Khola but locals said it was impossible. They went over ridge and camped at 5000m on ridge at 15 May. Next day they put up camp at so-called German BC. It was difficult to find mountain as it cannot be seen. When they got to BC mountain was visible. Route up to C1 on moraine. They put up cairns for path as it was difficult to find. They put up C1 at beginning of glacier from C1 to C2; they used skis, nice ramp not many crevasses. Route quite clear, set up camp on rockband.

On summit day they left at 4 am. Weather clear. Route clear but long. Only false summit can be see from route. From there to real summit, it's about one hour. Whole ascent was done in skis - Pemba used snow shoes to top was very windy.

Skiing was hard but rewarding. From top to 6100m snow conditions difficult. From 6100m good skiing conditions. They dismantled C2 and carried on to C1, arrived at 2 pm. On 24 May back to BC. They walked out the same way they came in.