원정 개요

BC at Kangjung Yak camp (for Tibetans from Nangpa La)
C1 at start on South Pillar on SW Face.

C1 one night and back to BC; then up to C1 on 9 May for fixing ropes and back to BC on 12 May. 16 May to C1 again; 17 and 18 May more rope fixing to 6700m and down to BC on 18 May. 21 May to C1; 22 May at 1:30 am up from C1 and on top 3:00 pm; 15 minutes on top and down to C1 9:00 pm. 23 May midday to BC. Beautiful day on 22nd.

"Very hard trip," much harder than Nuptse; technically difficult and from 6800m to 7200m (snow seracs) and necessary to climb on top of the three ridges one after the other and not possible to fix them. Fixed ropes ended at 6700m. On descent, fixed rope broke but Unterkircher held by short rope between them, not hurt. At about 6500m traversed 100m to right side of pillar to avoid extremely difficult section; rejoined pillar at 6650m. Summit face no problem (from about 7070m to top).

From 2 May every day to 21 May cloudy in late morning and little snow falling. On summit day, snow avalanches whole day, took out fixed rope from 5740m to 5600m.

Kammerlander is 100% sure no team has been on Jasamba; there is only one route from Nepalese side and there were no traces of any previous teams.

Ropes used 1150m from 5300m to 6000m in parts & from C1 to 6700m in parts.