원정 개요

BC on Lhotse Glacier
C1 on South Face (route to right of Japanese)
C2 on ridge on South Face
C3 on left side of ridge
C4 at snowfield left of ridge.

Took long time to occupy C2 because many snow avalanches and difficult route and no campsite at lower altitude. From C2 to C3 mixed ice and rock, technically difficult, and 90-degree steepness in some places. Fixed rope: BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 1500m, C2 to C3 800m, C3 to C4 800m, C4 to top 700m (200m taken from below). From C4 to top mixed snow ice and rock; snow and rock slope above col at 8200m on SE Ridge, series of 4-5 false summits and very strong cold wind. On 31 May 3:30 am Byun, Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi left C4, Sherpas carrying and Byun making a route and fixing ropes; Um and Mo left C4 at 5:00 am and caught up with ropes fixed and climbed together. Above 8200m Lhakpa Wangdi returned to C4 on his job carrying rope finished and not interested in top; others reached top at 6:50 pm in full moon. Byun snow blind from taking photos without goggles. Team managed to reach C1 at 5:40 am 1 June and down to BC by Um and Pasang Namgyal; Byun and Mo from C4 to BC 2 June. Climb finished: no attempt on Lhotse's main summit because now cloudy and windy, many snow avalanches daily, no time left. This was Um's fourth attempt to climb Lhotse Shar, his first via South Face.

Sherpas:
Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Everest X1, Yalung Kang with Um
Lhakpa Wangdi, 25/11/77, Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers

Oxyygen:
Members Mo and Byun in C4 to top to 8200m
Um from C4 to top to 8300m
Sherpas Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi used none.

Accident: Nima Dorchi, 10/9/75 (25/5/2032), Murmidanda-9, Sankhuwasabha (said to have summited Dhaulagiri I in autumn 2000 with Spanish team and Cho Oyu Spring 2002 also with Spaniards), fell 700 meters from 6100m when he was not properly clipped onto the fixed rope. He fell in new soft snow and no bones were broken, but was in pain and was flown by helicopter from Chhukung to Kathmandu on 14 May.

Mo and Byun came to Kathmandu by helicopter from Syangboche on 7 June because of their frostbite: Mo's fingers and toes, Byun's toes and nose; areas are blue-black, but it was not immediately clear whether they will lose anything. Um's big toes also frostbitten, but not seriously.