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Minarik Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse · 2007 · 봄 (1) · Czech Republic

원정 개요

From C3 tried to find Kalny's body which could not find in 3 days, must be buried under pure ice. Down to BC.

Minarik up to C3 on 17 May, 3 nights waiting for fresh snow to consolidate; knew couloir's snow could be deep. Left C3 evening of 19th, climbed all night and had to start breaking trail at 7800-7900m; stopped when heat got bad at 7000m; rested noon to 5:00 pm, then started trail again up couloir in waist-deep snow. At 8250m stopped climb at 9:00 pm and dug hole to sleep in. 21 May started just before noon after cooking. At 1:30 pm stepped aside because climbers descending from top (including Pemba Doma Sherpa) were kicking a lot of snow and ice and he didn't want it in his face. A minute later Pemba Doma came falling down and she would have taken him with her. She fell from same spot where Kalny fell in 2006, so Minarik frozen for half an hour not knowing whether to go up or down, then on up to top at 6:00 pm. Stayed on top half an hour, then descended slowly because of accident. Spent night in Falahey's C4. Next day (22nd) in descent saw Pema Doma's body at same spot Kalny had stopped falling. Spent night in C3, 23rd in C2 and BC on 24th. On 25th to Lobuche and helicopter to Kathmandu on 26th.

This climb "took a lot out of one emotionally" because of searching for Kalny's body and coincidences of Pema Doma's fatal accident.

  • 내부 원정 ID5728
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT07101
  • 대장Martin Minarik
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 1명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Martin MinarikCzech RepublicLeader성공--

출처·참고문헌

http://www.martinminarik.cz · 2007 · 웹사이트 (5) ·