원정 개요

BC at Lirung Glacier, north of Gyalsham Gompa
C1 at below ridge
C2 on SE Ridge
C3 on SE Ridge
C4 on SE Ridge.

After C3, Sherpas in "no good condition" to carry loads and only one carried to C4 only once. 26 Oct C4 pitched but slept in; other party arrived C4 on 29th and slept there. 30th made summit attack by Nagatsuka and Yanagihara to 6900m. Then Nagatsuka became blind in both eyes from altitude (could see 30 cm only). Next day his sight Ok after reaching BC 31st at Oct (slept in C4 on 31st).

2nd attack on 2 Nov from C3 by Nomura and Ogawa. 3 Nov 4:30 am started from C4 and reached 7150m at 3:00 pm; turned back because too late for summit and safe return. Slow progress that day due to deep snow and strong wind. Returned to C4 to sleep and to C2 next day.

3rd attack by Ichimura and Oishi who arrived C4 6 Nov to go to top on 7th but on 7th Ichimura and Oishi in "no good condition" and strong wind (Ichimura heavy coughing/sore ribs and Oishi tired), so now climbing finished.

6 members had tried for summit, one gone home because his time to be out of Japan finished and other one had serious tooth infection. Between C2 and C2 dangerous from falling stones and when snow is present, avalanching. Route is difficult: sharp ridge with soft snow. Left BC 10 Nov.