원정 개요

BC at same as Italians (normal BC site).

Pitched 2 C3s: 1st 6900m on 6 Oct. but had to put it lower because exposed to wind. Now big problem with winds and 3 times reached site of C4; because of winds and ice had to retreat 3 times. 4th time successful with big stones and ropes (170 km/hr/wind). Wind was only real problem: began on 6th Oct and blew all the the time. Summit bids by all who tried to go to C4 were planning to go on to top but 1st 3 groups failed to pitch C4, 4th group set up C4 and slept there one night and then winds drove them down. 5th group were 2 of 5 who made C4; started 0:15 am from C3 on 25th and reached top 11:55 am and down to C3 (one C4 tent had been brought to C3, other C4 tent was destroyed by winds). 26th to BC. On 26th 2 others up to C3 but retreated next day; now snowfall began and was windy. 27th Oct decided climbing finished. Left BC 31 Oct.