원정 개요

Pizarro left BC at 10:15 pm (NST) on 15 May. He was on his own without a Sherpa. It was snowing, temperature was about -15 degrees C. At about 2 am wind picked up to about 25 knots. At 4:30 am light began to rise and sky was clear. About 6 people were waiting on 2nd Step. Pizarro saw dead Japanese climber on bottom of 2nd Step. Great views from Summit. About 15 people on summit. Pizarro spent two hours on summit. He descended to C3 where he spent the night. Next day he descended to ABC where he arrived at 8 pm. On his ascent Pizarro climbed to C3 with his Sherpa Fur Gyalzen on summit push. Fur Gyalzen did not want to get up. He told Pizarro that he did not want to go to summit. He had spoken to his wife on satellite phone and his wife told told him not to go up.

When Pizarro and Gyalzen arrived at C3 on 15 May at 4 pm, there was no camp for them. Fur Gyalzen had told Pizarro that a camp would be in place but there wasn't. Czech climber Libor Kozak and his Sherpa took him into their tent. Libor did not look very well. He ate a cup of noodles and a cup of tea. He was lucid but weak and looked blue. Pizarro wanted to check his oxygen saturation but Libor refused. Pizarro had feeling that Libor did not want to know any more about his bad condition.

When Pizarro got ready to go for summit at 9:30 pm he saw Libor struggling with his crampons. Libor then was still planning to go up. Pizarro was scared to go alone and was keen to climb with Libor. At 10:15 pm Libor started to move towards the summit. When Pizarro saw how slow he was, he took off without him [the next time Pizarro saw Libor he was dead at 8300m]. When he came back from summit at 4 pm the tent they had spent the night in was gone, so was Fur Gyalzen Sherpa and Libor (on his descent to C3 a huge storm started which lasted for about 20 minutes). Pizarro got into a free tent and spent night there. He found Libor's dead body the next morning. He was lying about 100m above 1st tent of C3, about 50m left of the fixed rope. Libor almost looked as if he was resting. Pizarro tried to wake him up, but quickly noticed that he was dead. Pizarro speculates he died of cerebral edema, due to Libor's behavior in tent the previous night. Libor was not wearing crampons. Pizarro tried to put Libor into better position, but no one would help him. Pizarro believes that Libor had died in this position as snow was undisturbed and becasue of the levitation of the body. He spent about 1 hour with Libor's dead body. He left C3 at about noon and got to ABC 8 pm.

Sherpa:
Fur Gyalzen, Kharikhola, 21/11/75, Baruntse 1997 [as Phurba?],
Ama Dablam 2000 [?]