원정 개요

BC just east of Damodar Kunde
ABC northeast of BC
C1 at steep sand/gravel dose at bottom of icefall.

All foreigners except Edward Odell, the team doctor, stayed at BC throughout climb because felt effects of altitude. Team mad trekked from Pokhara 8th Oct, from Jomsom 15th Oct. 20th Lhakpa, Ang Kitar, Ang Jangbu and E Odell left BC and reached ABC at 5:30 pm. From BC to ABC terrain is wide steep sloping desert sand/gravel. 21st Oct Odell stayed at ABC while 3 Sherpas went on up and camped under icefall at 20,000 ft. Left ABC 2:30 am and reached C1 at 3:00 pm. 22nd Oct 3 Sherpas left C1 at 2:00 am and on top at 7:45 am. Climbed icefall in 2 hrs fixing rope here to top of icefall at 20,500 ft. From icefall snow and ice ridges very steep - no avalanches but very strong wind. Returned to BC at 7:00 pm. Fixed rope on final 200m to summit because it was windy on sharp rock ridges; this only rope fixed. 5 clients had thought in KTM they would climb but Sherpas were so much more energetic than they were in BC, they felt exploration was enough.

BC and its lake are over two 17,000 ft passes from last camp at Gurrnatanti and very rocky taking porters as far as lake because heavy snowstorm could block passes.


Bhrikuti (6364m)

A British-Nepalese joint team, led by Elaine Brook and co-led by Lhakpa Sherpa, claimed that they made the first ascent of this peak by the SE Ridge on Oct 22, 1991. Three Sherpas (Lhakpa, Ang Zangbu and Ang Kitar) reportedly reached the summit at that time. However, when the HAJ (Himalayan Association of Japan) and the Tribhuvan Univ. Joint team first challenged this peak in 1982 Spring; they climbed all high peaks comprising main range. This fact is apparently denying above British claim [of 1st ascent]. The HAJ-Nepal joint team approached Bhrikuti, believed to be 6720m at that time and placed BC on NW Face via Dae village.