원정 개요

BC 2 hours beyond Birstange, north of Pangal
C1 on rock face of south-southeast ridge running from Himlung past Panbari
C2 at top of this rock face
C3 at snowfield east of point 6341m
C4 at north end of snowfield.

Could see mountain from BC. Himlung and Panbari Himal spent 10 days trying to find on east side of big icefall which is below east side of ridge running SSE from Himlung past Panbari Himal. Finally made route to west side of icefall on rock face of east side of this ridge; rock falling from face hit most Nepalis and Imoto, but not seriously hurt. From C2 down 200m on snow face into N end of icefall and northwards to snowfield east of point 6341 of KMTNC Annapurna area map. Tried twice to go to top from C3 but too tired and made C4 towards end of snowfield. Rockfall again down face of 6700m at 2:30 pm, turned back because had no ropes and too late to finish climb in daylight.

13th Oct 1st summit team started at 5:00 am, Phul Bahadur and Dambar at 6:00 am and 2 Japanese and 3 Nepalis at 6:30 am; had decided anyone reached point 6700m before 1:00 pm could continue to top and 1st party at 9:00 am here and 2nd 11:30 am, 3rd group at 2:00 pm and descended from here; summiters slept in C4 which reached together (2 parties - 1st waited at top for 2nd party) 4:30-5:00 pm 13th while 3rd party at 7:00 pm. Fixed 7-9 ropes on final ridge, 22 ropes C4 to ridge; total 55-60 ropes (each rope 45m).

14 Nov 1991 - Al Burgess, leader of British attempt on Cheo, is confident this expedition climbed right mountain.

Expedition's altimiter showed summit to be 7080m high which is 260m higher than official altitude.