원정 개요

Climbed alpine-style from C3 having descended to BC for rest. 21st pushed up from C3. 22nd Graham and Selland to 7800m and turned back: wanted to put C4 higher, followed a ridge to a false summit was where should have gone but one man getting sick and both exhausted so back to C4. Weiss had gotten almost to C4 but had pneumonia or some lung problem and had gone down to C3. Others not now in condition to go up so climb finished. Very long route and with no Sherpa support (even cooking done by Americans). Sherpas stayed at low BC because exhausted by time for strong summit bid. Should have had more rest days earlier in climb. "Incredibly safe route for an 8000m peak." Had beautiful weather.